My two years living in Amsterdam were filled with many glorious moments- cultural epiphanies, vivid personal introspections, and festive freedoms that I had never before experienced. They were also filled with moments of grave loneliness and grand feelings of "what am I doing here." Amsterdam is a vortex. It offers the best of times; it offers the worst of times. This vortex encompasses and ensnares many of the ex-pats as well as many of the local "Amsterdamers". The drive train of the vortex is the 250-some odd coffee shops that are smattered around the city. Many of these coffee shops are wonderful and magical places that can, upon entry, mystify even the staunchest of stiffs into a willingness to partake in the local fare. Everyone is welcome in the coffee shop and conversation abounds. [read more]